This is basically Ledaig under a different name, fully matured in a rioja barrique. I know I'm on record as rarely approving of wine casks, but I like this one a lot. It's nicely integrated (no dodgy last-minute finishing here), the cask's not been too active, and Ledaig's a robust spirit that can stand up for itself. It's a really entertaining contrast with the very classical and elegant 18yo Ledaig from the last outturn too. Think of this one as the boisterous younger sibling!
 
So, on the nose: ashes and smouldering tarmac, very buttery pain aux raisins, bandages, salt and vinegar crisps, seawater and orange peel. In the background I get a curious mix of toasted black peppercorns, menthol, liquorice and cloves.
 
The palate is big, oily and really smoky. Charred lemons, dried Williams pears, morello cherries, black cardomom and black treacle. The finish is fantastically salty and ashy - one of those that you can still taste half an hour later.
 
Like the Speyside this also takes water really well - becoming softer and cleaner, with citrus, smoke and brine. Pure elemental Ledaig in other words.
This rioja barrique produced 293 bottles at 58.2%, and they are available for £65 each.