What importer-turned-vigneron Robert Walters is doing at Place of Changing Winds is remarkable.
As the Melbourne based Australian agent for some of France’s top growers, such as Domaine Hubert Lamy’s Olivier Lamy, Walters is pioneering similar methods (such as high-density plantings) to try and fast-track a sense of place in his wines.
In 2012, Walters established Place of Changing Winds in the foothills of Mt Macedon. Across a 3.1ha site surrounded by forest, he has planted an astonishing 45,000 vines at various densities – the highest of which is 33,000 per ha – to promote competition between plants and deeper root systems, producing lower yields of intensely flavoured grapes.
Learning first-hand that changes in farming can lead to extraordinary wines, Walters has developed organic techniques specifically adapted to his estate. Fruit is hand-picked before fermentation and ageing in Stockinger barrels in a cellar next to the vineyard.
 
‘Harcourt’ – grown on granite and fermented with 50% whole bunches – is open and floral.
 
Place of Changing Winds is redefining what makes a great Australian wine.
 
Cherry and raspberry with pressed flowers – incredibly delicate, yet nicely chewy. 93 Points, Wine Advocate